So you’ve been to Salem, Mass. You’ve seen the Salem Witch Museum, the House of the Seven Gables, the Peabody-Essex Museum, and the other various attractions. All worthy endeavors. But, have you been to the Phillips House, resting serenely over on Chestnut Street?
Well, last week I was searching for something novel to do in Salem and came across this old mansion. On my way over, I got stuck in unexpected traffic (caused by road construction). Finally, I pulled into the wide, greenery draped drive. I visited at 3 o’clock on a Thursday and there was ample parking in front of the row of massive houses. Since I arrived later than I had planned, I hurried across the street and around the back of the house to the porch.
When I entered, I was greeted by a staff member who cheerfully asked if I was there for a tour. Lasting 45-60 minutes, tours start every half hour beginning at 11am; the last one starts at 4pm. I had just made it for the 3pm tour, and luckily for me, I was the only visitor there! She also inquired if I had any specific interests that I would like the tour to be focused on.
After a brief introduction to the people who lived in the old abode, we slipped on shoe covers. The disposable slippers protect the antique floors and irreplaceable carpets from wandering feet. Striding through the extravagant dining room, we reached the front door and hallway. My guide began to tell me about my surroundings.
The Phillips House is a 19th century mansion with really quite an intriguing story. It all started as a spite house. Back in 1800, Captain Nathaniel West and his wife, Elizabeth Derby West, constructed a house for themselves. Later, they were divorced, and the property was left to Elizabeth, and when she died, it was divided between their three daughters.
Sadly, the youngest daughter died early. Instead of her inheritance being distributed between her sisters, her property was given back to their father. Full of enmity, Nathaniel West chopped off his third of the house, which consisted of four chambers. In 1820, he used oxen and logs, and rolled the rooms about 5 miles down the road. The structure was placed onto its present location, and Captain West put on a few additions.
After the house’s unique change of scenery, the building spent many decades as a home, boarding house, and ladies’ finishing school. In the 1870’s and 80’s the mansion reached a square footage of 10,000 square feet, which is what it covers today.
In 1911, the magnificent house was purchased by the Phillips, an old Salem family. As new owners, they renovated their new acquisition with items such as electricity and a call system. The home is still filled with unusual artifacts from the Phillips family collection, which extends quite far back. There are dishes, carpets, pictures, furnishings and much more spread throughout the numerous rooms.
My tour guide was extremely knowledgeable. She welcomed any and every question I might have (there was perhaps only one she didn’t know), and knew the mansion’s history thoroughly. I was told that I could walk anywhere in the rooms. There were no roped off areas, which I found very cool.
I highly recommend taking the time to explore this fascinating estate. Prices seem to be very reasonable. The cost is $8 for adults, $7 for seniors, and $4 for students. Since it is run by Historic New England, admission is free if you are a member of the group; tickets are also free for Salem residents.
Unfortunately, this house is not handicap accessible. There are multiple flights of stairs needed to traverse the house. A short one leads into the house, and there are two for climbing to the second and third levels, and one long, more narrow staircase to go back down.
The grounds also encompass a large brick building that the Phillipses only used for storage. I just received a brief overview of it because of my own time constraints, however, it would be interesting to learn more. Inside are housed several antique cars, one of which still runs today, and carriages.
So much information is contained in this old house; I look forward to visiting this site again!