Discovering History Everywhere

Category: New England (Page 3 of 3)

Lexington’s Hancock-Clarke House and Buckman Tavern

The Hancock-Clarke House

I’m sure you’ve heard of Paul Revere’s midnight ride, “One if by land, two if by sea,” and the “Shot Heard ‘Round the World”. But how many of us have really gotten into the nitty-gritty of what happened on that 19th of April, 1775? That day was pivotal in the American Revolution: blood was shed on both sides. After that, nothing was the same and war was imminent.

Now, there are plenty of sites you can visit that each focus on differing parts of the event. You could go to the Old North Church or Paul Revere’s house in the heart of Boston, or you could head over to Minuteman National Park to view the North Bridge, among a host of other sites. However, I decided to drop in on the Lexington Historical Society and explore two of their c.18th century buildings.

After picking up a fellow history lover, my plan was to head to the Buckman Tavern first, which is right off the Lexington Green, then go to see the Hancock-Clarke House second. When we arrived at the tavern, we were asked if we wanted to take a tour of the building.

The price for touring just the tavern is $8.00. However, you can also purchase a $12.00 ticket that admits you to the Buckman Tavern, the Hancock-Clarke House, and the Munroe Tavern. At the moment though, the Munroe Tavern is closed until April 2019, but you can bring back the ticket next year to receive admission then. You don’t have to go to all the buildings on one day anyways.

I decided to buy the combo ticket. It seemed like the best deal, and we had the time for it. The woman at the front recommended walking over to the Hancock-Clarke House first, because its tours start every hour, and the tour gives a good background for learning about the tavern. Walking took less than ten minutes, as the house is just down the street.

Easy to spot with its bright yellow paint, the colonial building’s museum entrance is through a small wooden structure at the back. A historic herb garden surrounds the roadside sign, with different markers next to the carefully selected plants.

When I stepped inside, the path to the information desk seemed a bit awkward with a display narrowing the walkway. We arrived just in time for the 11:00 tour. First, we were instructed to take a seat in the main room where we were shown a 15 minute video giving a condensed history of the events leading up to the skirmish is Concord, focusing on Lexington’s part.

Once it ended, we were asked not to use flash photography, or to touch/lean upon any of the artifacts. Our guide was a man likely in his late 60s, who was wearing colonial garb. He was extremely knowledgeable and earned my stamp of approval by answering all my questions and presenting his information in an engaging -and sometimes funny- way.

So it turns out, the Hancock part of the house’s name originates from theJohn Hancock’s (the signer of the Declaration of Independence) family. His grandfather lived there for fifty odd years while he was the minister at the Lexington meetinghouse. This John Hancock (the first), raised his family there, including three sons.

The first son (John Hancock the second), and the third son both went to Harvard to become ministers. The middle son was trained as a bookbinder, and later transitioned to a bookseller among other things. This son, Thomas Hancock, made a fortune with his books, and became a wealthy landowner in Boston.

John Hancock II died when he was only 42, and left behind his wife and three children. Thomas Hancock and his wife, who hadn’t been able to have children themselves, adopted the eldest, John, as their own. After rich Uncle Thomas’ death, his wealth was left to his nephew, John Hancock III, who became the money source for the colonists during the Revolution.

But back to the house. In the 1730’s, Thomas most likely paid for an addition to be made on his parents house. Now, there is no hard evidence pertaining to exactly how all the parts of the present Hancock-Clarke House ended up together, but our tour guide gave us his own theory. Put simply, his idea is that part of this building was moved to its current location from another part of the town, which would explain some of the house’s oddities and the dates that have been gathered from wood samples.

Tiles around one of the fireplaces depicting Biblical scenes

After all these Hancocks, you might be wondering where the Clarkein the house’s name comes from. Clarke came into the picture when John Hancock I died and a new minister was required for Lexington’s meeting house. The Reverend Jonas Clarke was hired, and it was he and his family who were living in the house when the events of April 19th occurred.

So on April 18th and then 19th, Paul Revere, William Dawes, and later Samuel Prescott were riding through the country to warn the townspeople of the impending arrival of the Redcoats. Some of the people they particularly wanted to warn were Samuel Adams and John Hancock (III), who were staying at–guess where–the Hancock-Clarke House. Several warnings throughout the night were required to finally convince the two men to leave. Just in time, because the British Regulars arrived a few hours later.

Back in the 1700’s, this house would have had a clear view to the Lexington Green where the brief battle took place. One account by a survivor mentions hurtling down the road towards the house on a runaway horse during the skirmish. I could easily envision the galloping horse as our tour guide directed us to take a peek at the view from the upper story windows.

Once our tour was completed, we walked back to the Buckman Tavern. The women at the front desk were very friendly, and got us all set with our audio guides for the tour. There is also a nice gift shop in the tavern, with a lot of interesting colonial souvenirs. When we were ready, a guide led us to a room at the back of the building.

Inside this room, there was a display of items that would actually have been found at the Battle of Lexington (or most likely, for a few of them). A large stone marker rested against one wall, and old drawings were hung on another. She gave us an introduction to the tavern and an explanation of how to use the audio guides, which is very straightforward. We might’ve spent longer than usual because another group came in while we were listening to the audio guide. Hearing the audio was made a little more difficult while she gave them an introduction, but it didn’t last long.

Slowly, we walked through the other rooms, pausing in each one to listen to the corresponding number on the guide. The Buckman Tavern is the location where Lexington’s militia gathered after an initial call to arms during the night. When the Regulars didn’t show up, they thought it might’ve been a false alarm. So some went home while others stayed in the tavern right off the green. The militia who remained in the tavern were the ones who made a stand when the Redcoats arrived. A testament to its role in the skirmish, a bullet hole is still visible in the old front door.

Once we finished the main floor, we turned around and headed upstairs. The tavern has a new exhibit there on social media and its 18th century counterparts. There are several interactive displays and you can even send a postcard to a friend to commemorate your visit.

Overall, I found this museum very interesting, though I did prefer the Hancock-Clarke House, mainly because there was a tour guide instead of audio. I would definitely make a stop at the Lexington Historical Society next time you get a chance!

Longfellow’s Wayside Inn and Grist Mill Part 1

This landmark is billed as America’s oldest running inn. Quite a claim, so after browsing through the website, I decided I definitely needed to check it out. Online, I found that there is an enclave of historic buildings nearby, including an operational grist mill, the Martha Mary Chapel, and the Mary Had a Little Lamb Schoolhouse (yes, it’s believed that this is where Mary took her little lamb to school!) My grandma was visiting this past week, so we headed over to see the Grist Mill and get a bite to eat at the Wayside Inn.

My mom drove the whole crew over and we stopped first at the Grist Mill. There’s a simple sign on the side of the road giving the name and construction date. Parking is limited and consists of some gravel off the side of the road. However, our visit was on a weekday and we had no difficulties finding a space. We walked down a few steps to a path going across a flat, grassy field. A few signs indicated that the Grist Mill is a 1930 reconstruction of the original.

We crossed a small stream with a few fish in it and then stood at the foot of the mill. Boy, was it picturesque! I’d definitely recommend bringing a camera. With its bright red water wheel, stone walls, and mist sparkling in the sun, the old Grist Mill made for beautiful scene. (I should add, for professional photography sessions, you need to get permission ahead of time.)

Near the mill’s base, there are millstones scattered around with a sign describing their different characteristics. An uneven stone staircase leads up around to the back of the building, where the main entrance is on the second floor. Once inside, there is no fee, but a box is there for optional donations as you walk in.

We soon realized that no one was inside the Grist Mill to interpret, though the website indicated that there would be. Maybe it was because we came so close to 5 o’clock, which is closing time. I had also seen online that working mill demonstrations most often occurred on the weekend when there were the most visitors. We read most of the signs and found out that this mill, in the middle of Massachusetts, was owned by the Henry Ford!

All the mill’s contraptions were very interesting, but it would have been even better if they were moving. We went through pretty quickly and hopped back into the car.

Just down the road, the Wayside Inn sprawls along the road. We were a little confused where to park and picked a space across the street. However, there is actually parking behind the inn as well. Once we located the entrance (it’s not obvious from across the street), we found ourselves in a hallway across from the Wayside’s gift shop. The gift shop was nice, with cute products and history books for sale.

We were there kind of early for dinner, so we didn’t have any problems getting a table. I’m fact, it was pretty empty. Our waitress led us to what she told us was one of the oldest rooms at the inn: the kitchen. I could tell that the room was old: the wooden floors had warped and the old bookcase against one wall slanted along with it. A large fireplace was located right next to our table, and various cooking accoutrements were placed around it. One of them was a sort of geared pulley system; we asked the waitress what it was, and it turned out to be an antique, automated rotisserie.

Snacking on the assorted breads given us, we made our order. (Though I know this isn’t a food blog, I’ll give my two cents worth: our favorite parts were the breads and indian pudding. The rest of the food was not bad.)

As we were headed out, I noticed a sizable embroidered map of the Greater Boston Area. The interesting stitchery depicted the events of April 19th, 1775, when British soldiers marched through Lexington and Concord. I thought it quite neat.

Further down the hall there appeared to be the hotel section of the inn. You can actually still stay there! But without fully exploring that end, we departed for the car.

When we emerged outside, low and behold, there was a group of fifers getting ready for practice. A father and son stood near a bench. While we waited for my mom to bring the car around, we struck up a conversation. Turns out, the father is a docent at the inn on weekends. They are both a part of different fife and drum corps in the area. The Sudbury Ancients, the father’s group, was the one that was going to be practicing that night. On Wednesday nights during the summer through September you can find them there.

Once he found out that we hadn’t been to the Wayside before and hadn’t gone a tour, he offered to give us a brief tour. We filed back in the way we came while he gave us an overview of events leading up to the shots in Lexington and how that affected the inn and its occupants.

We passed through the lobby to the hall where we had stopped before. On one side, there was a bar, on the other, an exhibit. Our tour guide explained that this was the original section of the building, and this one room has been maintained to appear as it would have hundreds of years ago. The room is believed to be the one described in Henry Wadsworth Longfellow’s poem, Tales of a Wayside Inn, thus the name.

Next we went upstairs, where there is a large function room, a few glass cases with artifacts, and overnight rooms. Our guide pointed out to us an original charred beam from a 1955 fire that blazed in the building. He also told us that people have left rolled up notes in the bedrooms for a long time; unfortunately, any historical significant ones are probably gone.

After answering our questions, he concluded the tour, saying that he recommends returning on a Sunday, when there are reenactors present. Then we filed outside and into the car. I was left with a much better feeling towards the place after our tour. I definitely intend to return on a future Sunday to explore the sites when they have the most to offer. Then I will have to write a Part 2.

As a final note, there does not appear to be any fees for visiting the Wayside Inn, and the Grist Mill is supported by donations. I believe this historic enclave is certainly worth a weekend visit!

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1. Sudbury Ancient Fyfe & Drum Co. 2. Westbrook Drum Corps 3. Landcraft Fife & Drum Corps 4. Menotomy Minute Men Fife & Drum 5. Kentish Guards Fife & Drum Corps 6. Connecticut Patriots 7. William Diamond Jr. Fife & Drum Corps 8. Prescott's Battalion 9. Nathan Hale Ancient Fifes & Drums 10.

The Phillips House

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So you’ve been to Salem, Mass. You’ve seen the Salem Witch Museum, the House of the Seven Gables, the Peabody-Essex Museum, and the other various attractions. All worthy endeavors. But, have you been to the Phillips House, resting serenely over on Chestnut Street?

Well, last week I was searching for something novel to do in Salem and came across this old mansion. On my way over, I got stuck in unexpected traffic (caused by road construction). Finally, I pulled into the wide, greenery draped drive. I visited at 3 o’clock on a Thursday and there was ample parking in front of the row of massive houses. Since I arrived later than I had planned, I hurried across the street and around the back of the house to the porch.

When I entered, I was greeted by a staff member who cheerfully asked if I was there for a tour. Lasting 45-60 minutes, tours start every half hour beginning at 11am; the last one starts at 4pm. I had just made it for the 3pm tour, and luckily for me, I was the only visitor there! She also inquired if I had any specific interests that I would like the tour to be focused on.

After a brief introduction to the people who lived in the old abode, we slipped on shoe covers. The disposable slippers protect the antique floors and irreplaceable carpets from wandering feet. Striding through the extravagant dining room, we reached the front door and hallway. My guide began to tell me about my surroundings.

The Phillips House is a 19th century mansion with really quite an intriguing story. It all started as a spite house. Back in 1800, Captain Nathaniel West and his wife, Elizabeth Derby West, constructed a house for themselves. Later, they were divorced, and the property was left to Elizabeth, and when she died, it was divided between their three daughters.

Sadly, the youngest daughter died early. Instead of her inheritance being distributed between her sisters, her property was given back to their father. Full of enmity, Nathaniel West chopped off his third of the house, which consisted of four chambers. In 1820, he used oxen and logs, and rolled the rooms about 5 miles down the road. The structure was placed onto its present location, and Captain West put on a few additions.

After the house’s unique change of scenery, the building spent many decades as a home, boarding house, and ladies’ finishing school. In the 1870’s and 80’s the mansion reached a square footage of 10,000 square feet, which is what it covers today.

In 1911, the magnificent house was purchased by the Phillips, an old Salem family. As new owners, they renovated their new acquisition with items such as electricity and a call system. The home is still filled with unusual artifacts from the Phillips family collection, which extends quite far back. There are dishes, carpets, pictures, furnishings and much more spread throughout the numerous rooms.

My tour guide was extremely knowledgeable. She welcomed any and every question I might have (there was perhaps only one she didn’t know), and knew the mansion’s history thoroughly. I was told that I could walk anywhere in the rooms. There were no roped off areas, which I found very cool.

I highly recommend taking the time to explore this fascinating estate. Prices seem to be very reasonable. The cost is $8 for adults, $7 for seniors, and $4 for students. Since it is run by Historic New England, admission is free if you are a member of the group; tickets are also free for Salem residents.

Unfortunately, this house is not handicap accessible. There are multiple flights of stairs needed to traverse the house. A short one leads into the house, and there are two for climbing to the second and third levels, and one long, more narrow staircase to go back down.

The grounds also encompass a large brick building that the Phillipses only used for storage. I just received a brief overview of it because of my own time constraints, however, it would be interesting to learn more. Inside are housed several antique cars, one of which still runs today, and carriages.

So much information is contained in this old house; I look forward to visiting this site again!

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