Discovering History Everywhere

Category: 20th Century

The Alaska Railroad in the Turnagain Arm

Not 10 minutes outside of Anchorage, traveling south on the Seward Highway, there is a small building touted as the Chugach State Park Headquarters. Just next to it are a couple train cars, partially visible from the road.

Most of these train cars’ history takes place along the Turnagain Arm (so named by Captain Cook, who had to turn again to exit). This site has an absolutely incredible view of the waterway. On a clear day, the two cars have an unobstructed view of the Kenai Mountains, and even the Alaska Range across the Cook Inlet.

One car is a gigantic black and red snowplow, while the other is a white sleeper car turned kitchen car.

The snowplow and its massive blades were used when avalanches covered tracks in cement-like snow, an occurrence not uncommon to the tracks along Turnagain Arm.

With its small building shut down due to virus precautions, this site doesn’t look like many turn off the highway to see it. There is a collection of old and new signs describing the history of the place, some of which are almost illegible.

The first two signs read:

“ROTARY SNOWPLOW: These plows with 9 foot circular rotor blades were used by the Alaska Railroad to clear the snow clogged tracks … Turnagain Arm and through the Kenai Mountains………”

“OUTFIT CAR: Railroad car 1500e started its life as a troop sleeping car during World War II. After the War the sleeper was converted for use as a kitchen car.”

The first railroad in Alaska was started in 1903 by the Alaska Central Railway. However, they only laid 50 miles of track traveling north out of Seward, its origin point.

After bankruptcy in 1908, the company reorganized as the Alaska Northern Railway Co. Their second attempt only brought the railroad 21 miles farther to Kern Creek, just short of Girdwood, Alaska.

In 1914, the U.S. Federal Government approved funding for a railroad from Seward to Fairbanks, with an estimated cost of $35 million.

It took eight years to finish construction of the 478 miles of track. After completion, the federal government ran railroad operations, but the project was unprofitable.

In 1930, Seward, Fairbanks, and Anchorage combined only had a population of 5,400 – not enough to allow for steady rail business.

However, under new leadership, the Alaska Railroad beings to profit in 1938. And during WWII, profits soared as the trains transported civilian and military supplies.

Railroad ownership switched from the federal government to the State of Alaska in 1983. Over the next 26 years, the railroad’s value increased over $830 million dollars!

Now, the Alaska Railroad’s blue and gold cars are signature Alaskan – a symbol of pride for residents of the Last Frontier.

Looking Towards the Turnagain Arm from a Platform Behind the Train

Many thanks to the Alaska Railroad website and the Chugach State Park signage!

Alaska Railroad

The Alaska Railroad shows a record profit of $8.0 million, surpassing the previous record profit of $7.90 million in 1995. Passenger ridership grows to 512,000. Former Governor Bill Sheffield becomes CEO and President of the Alaska Railroad and John Binkley is named Chairman of the Board of Directors.

Book Review: The Complete Maus

Warning: Adult Content

When Maus was first published in the 1980’s, readers were shocked. Not only was it a graphic novel – before graphic novels were a thing – but it dealt with the Holocaust in comic book form. There were many skeptics; such a serious topic had never been put into such an informal style before. But the author, Art Spiegelman, blew everyone away.

May 8, 2020 marks the 75th anniversary of V-E Day, or Victory in Europe Day. Allied soldiers and citizens celebrated – World War II was over, at least mostly. Germany had surrendered. The day commemorates the end of a war which left many longing for its end. So many atrocities were committed, only some of which Spiegelman writes about in Maus.

This book is definitely not for children. As you may guess, there is a lot of disturbing content related to the Holocaust. However, even after that introduction, I still highly recommend reading Maus. Not because it’s uplifting, but because the story is important, well-written, and thought-provoking. I loved it in the most miserable sort of way.

Spiegelman is so honest and real. It’s like reading two stories at once: one about Art’s relationship with his father, and one about his dad’s experience during WWII. Spiegelman’s father, Vladek, speaks with an accent, and his inaccurate grammar and quirks – both the endearing and annoying – are all included. Art doesn’t gloss over anything, writing about his rocky relationship with his dad, up to Vladek’s outright racism towards blacks. The honesty made it very real.

Looking at black and white drawings of animal-headed figures makes you think about the issues in a different way too. Someone who might not usually want to learn about the Holocaust might read Maus because it’s a graphic novel. And someone put off by the visuals in something like Schindler’s List might be willing to read this instead.

The use of animals heads makes it digestible. Seeing human faces going through those horrific situations would be more disturbing. The Jews are mice – prey, eaten and chased by cats. Germans are the sneaky, predator cats. Poles are non-Kosher pork-eaters, shown by their depiction as pigs. Americans are dogs –good-hearted, but too bull-headed. And the French are frogs, coinciding with a derogatory slur for the French, perhaps because of their ambivalence towards the Jews.

There were so many crimes depicted in this book, it would be difficult to pin down one that horrified me the most. However, there is one line that I won’t forget.

Spiegelman is talking to Pavel, a Holocaust survivor and his psychiatrist. They are talking about the Holocaust and Spiegelman’s upcoming sequel to Maus I. They address the guilt of surviving and whether there was value in another book about Auschwitz. Pavel says, “I’m not talking about your book now, but look at how many books have already been written about the Holocaust. What’s the point? People haven’t changed… Maybe they need a newer, bigger Holocaust,” (Maus, panel 4, 205).

That perhaps is the scariest part of the book. Not the brutality of humans towards other humans, but the chance that we haven’t learned our lesson. That the stories are being forgotten, ignored, and replaced. That the horrific truth of the Holocaust is fading with every survivor who dies, with every story that lies dusty on a library shelf.

Pavel’s words suggest that society is no longer shocked by the Holocaust’s atrocities; they have become used to its horrors and need something new to shock them into action. 

We need to remember these stories. I strongly recommend this book, but for a mature, older crowd.

Ipswich, Massachusetts

Flashback to last October, on Massachusetts’ North Shore: Ipswich, not far from the New Hampshire border, is a gem of natural and historical sites. We drove (approximately a two hour drive from Boston) with the intention of visiting the famously beautiful Castle Hill on the Crane Estate. However, when we arrived, the gate was shut. The park was closed in order to clean up trees that had fallen in a recent wind storm. But we were determined to still enjoy Ipswich, and we most certainly did.

A park employee, advised us to drive to the nearby – and apparently popular – Crane Beach. The day was sunny, windy, and bone-chilling, but the beach was magnificent. Sand dunes speckled with brush spilled toward the water, where the water thrashed in the wind. Islands and promontories were visible, and marshes spread out on our right.

If we peered closely at the hill behind us, the mansion was just visible in a clearing of the trees. So, other than opulent beauty, what makes the Crane Estate such a cool place to visit? First, there’s a wonderful beach nearby, but the Trustees (the organization in charge), list several other reasons.

Fun Fact: the Crane Estate was used for scenes of Europe in the 2019 movie, Little Women.

Look Closely – the Estate Lies on the Hill’s Left

To start, Castle Hill and Castle Neck were first owned by John Winthrop, the first governor of Massachusetts, beginning in 1637. Two centuries later, the estate was bought by the Brown family. They added roadways and planned plantings to the property. They also renovated what was a farmhouse into the so-called “cottage.”

But in 1910, Richard T. Crane Jr. purchased the land and determined to change it dramatically. Crane was a wealthy industrialist from Chicago, who owned a company manufacturing valves, pumps, and bathroom pieces. He used his wealth extravagantly. The property was landscaped, and even included a completely-functioning farm.

The most striking of the estate’s new features was the house. At first, the Cranes built an Italian-style villa, which was finished in 1912. But they soon changed their minds, and had an English-style mansion constructed in its place! With 59-rooms, it must be impressive.

However, even though we didn’t get a chance to view this monstrous palace up close, now it’s just an excuse to go back. After our fun at Crane beach, it was time for lunch, so we drove into the downtown of Ipswich.

We elected to dine at the Heart and Soul Cafe, a warm, tasty little restaurant right in the center of town. Once we had filled up on a delicious salad, pancakes, and a burger, we set out to walk around. We had passed by a tiny old bridge, visitor center, museums, and cute shops. Unfortunately, I didn’t snap a photo of the streets downtown, but you’ll have to believe me that it was a perfect example of a quaint, bustling New England town.

Everywhere there were signposts and plaques revealing the history of the town. The Visitor Center had some great signs about the Essex Coastal Scenic Byway, which is huge, with a lot of places to discover. Zoom in on the photos below to see for yourself 🙂

The Choate Bridge, originally completed in 1764, and a small dam crossed over the Ipswich River, which runs right by the downtown. There was also a fish ladder nearby.

A pamphlet we picked up at the Visitor Center listed all the First Period (before 1725) Homes in Ipswich. A great idea! Though designed to be a walking guide and map, we used it to drive past a bunch of houses before we headed home. This one town has 60 First Period Homes! And there are 46 listed on the map.

We briefly walked around the John Whipple House. But it was closed at the moment, along with the Ipswich Museum, which lay right across the street. Judging from their website however, I’m sure they’d both be interesting to go inside.

So. I most definitely would like to return to Ipswich, and I hope you’d like to go too. There’s so much more that we didn’t even get to last time. I’m sure you could make a very full day out of everything. And even if you can’t – or don’t want to – go to the Castle Hill on the Crane Estate, there’s plenty to do that is fun and doesn’t even cost a penny.

Castle Hill on the Crane Estate | Ipswich, MA | The Trustees

Experience the grandeur of a seaside estate and its marvelously landscaped grounds, notable for a broad, undulating lawn running down to the shore. What makes Castle Hill a special place? Centuries before becoming a grand summer estate owned by one of America’s wealthiest families, Castle Hill was well known by Native Americans, who called the area Agawam, referring to its rich fishery.

IPSWICH MUSEUM | Ipswich Museum | Long and Rich History of Ipswich

The Ipswich Museum offers an array of exciting lectures, exhibits and classes that are open to the public. Check back throughout the year for the most up to date list of events.

Part 2: Adams National Historical Park

The Library at Peace Field

Your cliffhanger resolution has arrived! Sorry everyone for the long absence! I got a little overwhelmed with the holiday and National Novel Writing Month. Last time I left off with me on the trolley to visit John and Abigail Adams’ much more lavish residence, the Old House at Peace field. We arrived just as a rainstorm ended. The driver pulled up outside the stone wall and we walked down to the gate, where another park ranger was waiting for us. Something I forgot to mention before, is that in its entirety, the tour is about 3 hours long. Though I certainly enjoyed it, the tour might be a little long for younger kids. Fortunately, there are the trolley rides as well, so you’re not just in one location for 3 hours.

As we gathered on the porch, a different group filed out which was much larger than ours; I suppose we lucked out! Before we entered the house, the ranger answered any questions we might have starting out. Someone asked about the stone wall in front, which turned out to have been added by a later relation as the town of Quincy grew busier.

When we headed in, we were instructed to look into the room on our left, before entering the dining room on our right. The left room was a mahogany paneled parlor, and was partitioned off. Similarly, the room we were now in was mostly roped off, so that the aging artifacts could be protected.

Something that is unique about the Peace field house is that none of the rooms are arranged for a particular time period. Everything is a conglomeration of the different generations’ possessions. So in this first room, the ranger pointed out to us that the dining room table and chairs set had belonged to John and Abigail. The chairs on either end and the chest standing against one wall were each from successive descendants.

The second room we entered was a parlor that Abigail had requested to be added later on. With higher ceilings and more expensive furniture, this was a room for only adults, modeled after the popular fashions of Europe. Included in the decor were multiple portraits of various Adams family members. Two of them are from the 17th century and are believed to be the earliest surviving portraits painted in the colonies! The set of white, upholstered furniture in the room John had purchased in Europe for one of the U.S. embassies. But he ended up shipping it back for his own use at a later time. Dating from the 1830s, the wallpaper in the parlor is the oldest in the house.

From there, we went upstairs, where we peered over a rope at the study. The room was large, spanning the width of the house. One of the objects inside was a chair covered in floral fabric. We were told that this was the chair John Adams died in on July 4th, 1826, exactly 50 years after the Declaration of Independence was announced. 

The next space we entered was the Presidential Walkway, so named because one of the presidents caused its construction. Before this hallway was built, in order to get from the master bedroom to the study, you either had to go downstairs, cross to the other side of the house, and take another staircase back up, or you had to walk through the guest bedroom. Now John Quincy Adams was in the habit of visiting his study during the night, and he preferred taking the latter route, regardless of whether guests occupied it or not. His wife, Louisa Catherine, disapproved, and suggested the hallway as a means for John Quincy to reach his study with speed. The walkway was built and is filled with bookshelves, which are covered with books.

As we strolled down the passage, we peeked into the various bedrooms. The master was first used by John and Abigail, but when Abigail died, John slept in a different bedroom instead. But the master was utilized again by John Quincy and Louisa. 

At the end of the hallway, we passed through a door. A staircase spiraled up to a third floor where the servants would have lived. John and Abigail were not overly wealthy, but there grandson Charles Francis Adams was. He achieved his riches the old-fashioned way: by marrying into it. He and his wife added on to the house, including the servants quarters for their and their guests’ servants.

Back downstairs, by a different stairway, we emerged in the kitchen. A hodgepodge of appliances and cooking accoutrements from various eras were placed around the room. Along one wall was a row of bells for many rooms that alerted servants to their masters’ needs.

Then we proceeded through a butler’s pantry of sorts that houses many different plates, bowls and serving ware from the Adams family. We then came out into the main hall, where the ranger told us a story of Louisa Catherine. Louisa was disapproved of by her mother-in-law, Abigail. Since Louisa was from England, and was used to high society there, Abigail felt that she was weak and unsuited for the New England life.

Louisa got her chance to prove Abigail wrong. She had been living with her husband John Quincy in Russia while he was a delegate there. However, John was asked to go to France. John believed his stay would be temporary, and left Louisa and their son in Russia. When it became apparent that John would be staying, he asked Louisa to sell their house, pack up their belongings and come to him on the other side of Europe.

But John didn’t consider that the journey would be through a wintry, currently war-torn Europe. Louisa made the trip nonetheless, using her french to get them through a sticky situation with opposing military forces. After that, she always had Abigail’s respect.

After John Adams time, a library was constructed on the estate. The building was made with stone to ensure that the books would be safe from the threat of fire. The construction is beautiful, and is filled with tomes from top to bottom. There are books in many languages including the 5 different ones that John Quincy could read!

All in all, the Adams family were a unique and interesting group who were formative in the establishment and development of the early United States. I would definitely recommend visiting, though make sure your directions are correct! While you’re impatiently waiting for the historic homes to reopen this spring, check out the link below, where you can peek into a few rooms on your own. Till next week!

Adams National Historical Park - Google Arts & Culture

ADAMS NHP provides "an extraordinary window into the personal lives of two presidential families; early American literature, education and intellectual lif...

Adams National Historical Park

This site is actually situated in three different locations around the historic town of Quincy, Mass. With its aging saltbox houses, this park is one that I’ve been interested in for years. In 7th grade, I preformed a monologue based from one of Abigail Adams’ letters to John Adams. I was intrigued by the letters’ truthful descriptions of everyday 18th century life, including smallpox inoculations, to significant events, such as accounts of the Declaration of Independence being announced. How cool to be able to see where these intriguing people lived!

Throughout his life, John Adams wished to be back home with his family at his humble, peaceful farm. Now the public can visit that place as well. My dad and I drove over to see it before the historic houses closed for the season on November 11th. The visitor center does remain open during the winter, but I would recommend going when the houses are open, as they are the main attraction.

We followed our GPS to the John Adams and John Quincy Adams Birthplaces. However, when we stepped inside, a park ranger informed us that we were welcome to join this tour, but the experience is better if you start at the visitor center. A trolley will take you from there to the birthplaces, and then the second stop at Peacefield estate. 

We decided to drive to the visitor center so that everything would be in order. Getting there proved a little frustrating, even though it is close by. I would make sure that you are getting directions for the Adams National Historical Park Visitor Center, not the Presidential Birthplaces.

Once there, we arrived about 20 minutes before the 1:15pm tour. For some reason, the fee was waived that day, but according to the website, it’s usually $15 per person over the age of 16. A video was playing, giving an overview of the four generations of Adams that lived in these houses. Unfortunately, we weren’t quite able to finish it before the trolley arrived.

Taking the trolley, we were back at the birthplaces in less than 10 minutes. A park ranger met us outside the buildings, introduced himself, and gave a brief intro to the houses. In short, most of the houses’ original structure has been replaced over the years. They still stand on their original, 17th century foundations.

The John Quincy Adams house does have two 17th century floorboards and the John Adams house has one 17th century ceiling beam. The most recent major restoration was in the 1980s when the properties were transferred to the Park Service. Shingles were replaced in 2013, and are the newest repair to the houses.

Once the ranger answered our questions, we trooped into the John Adams Birthplace, whose outside slats are stained dark brown. Inside, there isn’t a lot of furniture. When it was used by the Adams, there would have been a few more tables and chairs, but not too much more.

John Adams’ father, Deacon John Adams, was a farmer, but followed his family’s tradition of educating the eldest son. Beginning at the age of 10, the Deacon attempted to start John’s education, but John wasn’t interested. The Deacon let it slide until John turned 14, at which time he insisted that his son take studying seriously. John bargained that he would obey as long as he could have a new teacher, which he was allowed. 

John’s love for learning exploded after that. He attended Harvard starting at the age of 16, as he was able to pass the entrance exam and pay for tuition. Once he graduated in 1755, he attempting teaching for a year, but discovered that the career was not for him. By the end of the year, he was having students teach the class, and skipping out to attend court sessions. Once his year was completed, he worked under attorney James Putnam and soon passed the 18th century equivalent of the bar exam himself.

Back near Quincy, John was getting to know Abigail Smith. Though it was by no means love at first sight, they began writing letters back and forth discussing philosophy.

John’s father died in 1761, and John inherited one of the houses, along with 10 acres of land. His brothers both inherited significantly more land than John, as their father expected them to make a living from the land and John was to make a living from the education the Deacon gave him. This division was one reason John called his father the most honest man he knew.

John and Abigail were married in October 1764, and moved into the farmhouse where John Quincy Adams would be born. On the tour, we headed over this tan-painted house, perhaps 30 feet away.

This house was similar inside. One of the rooms was set up as John Adams would have used it as his law office. A replica of his desk stands in one corner. All of the furniture in these buildings are replicas; originals that survive are located at Peacefield.

For much of the time John and Abigail were based here Abigail ran the farm. As John became more and more involved in the colonial government, he was gone for long stretches of time. Later, John was sent to help negotiate a treaty with France. He took his son, John Quincy Adams, with him.

I do have a small correction though. In answer to questions from other visitors, the park ranger confirmed that people were definitely shorter back then, and that is one of the reasons for low doorways, etc. He did state that the other reason would be for heat conservation. However, I just recently heard it reiterated that it is not necessarily true that people of the past were shorter. For starters, George Washington was 6’4″! Height depends on how well multiple generations have been fed. In the American colonies, food was readily available and had been, in Britain, for years, so height would have been very similar to ours now.

After a rapid tour of the two homes in half an hour, the trolley arrived to bring us to our next stop. We hopped on, and were whisked past the visitor center to Peacefield. Peacefield is the house and property that John and Abigail purchased when they returned from living in Europe’s opulence. When they were planning on coming back, their quaint farmhouse no longer seemed to meet their needs.

Next week I’ll finish the visit by detailing our tour through Peacefield, which is definitely the property that the Park Service focuses on.

Longfellow’s Wayside Inn and Grist Mill Part 1

This landmark is billed as America’s oldest running inn. Quite a claim, so after browsing through the website, I decided I definitely needed to check it out. Online, I found that there is an enclave of historic buildings nearby, including an operational grist mill, the Martha Mary Chapel, and the Mary Had a Little Lamb Schoolhouse (yes, it’s believed that this is where Mary took her little lamb to school!) My grandma was visiting this past week, so we headed over to see the Grist Mill and get a bite to eat at the Wayside Inn.

My mom drove the whole crew over and we stopped first at the Grist Mill. There’s a simple sign on the side of the road giving the name and construction date. Parking is limited and consists of some gravel off the side of the road. However, our visit was on a weekday and we had no difficulties finding a space. We walked down a few steps to a path going across a flat, grassy field. A few signs indicated that the Grist Mill is a 1930 reconstruction of the original.

We crossed a small stream with a few fish in it and then stood at the foot of the mill. Boy, was it picturesque! I’d definitely recommend bringing a camera. With its bright red water wheel, stone walls, and mist sparkling in the sun, the old Grist Mill made for beautiful scene. (I should add, for professional photography sessions, you need to get permission ahead of time.)

Near the mill’s base, there are millstones scattered around with a sign describing their different characteristics. An uneven stone staircase leads up around to the back of the building, where the main entrance is on the second floor. Once inside, there is no fee, but a box is there for optional donations as you walk in.

We soon realized that no one was inside the Grist Mill to interpret, though the website indicated that there would be. Maybe it was because we came so close to 5 o’clock, which is closing time. I had also seen online that working mill demonstrations most often occurred on the weekend when there were the most visitors. We read most of the signs and found out that this mill, in the middle of Massachusetts, was owned by the Henry Ford!

All the mill’s contraptions were very interesting, but it would have been even better if they were moving. We went through pretty quickly and hopped back into the car.

Just down the road, the Wayside Inn sprawls along the road. We were a little confused where to park and picked a space across the street. However, there is actually parking behind the inn as well. Once we located the entrance (it’s not obvious from across the street), we found ourselves in a hallway across from the Wayside’s gift shop. The gift shop was nice, with cute products and history books for sale.

We were there kind of early for dinner, so we didn’t have any problems getting a table. I’m fact, it was pretty empty. Our waitress led us to what she told us was one of the oldest rooms at the inn: the kitchen. I could tell that the room was old: the wooden floors had warped and the old bookcase against one wall slanted along with it. A large fireplace was located right next to our table, and various cooking accoutrements were placed around it. One of them was a sort of geared pulley system; we asked the waitress what it was, and it turned out to be an antique, automated rotisserie.

Snacking on the assorted breads given us, we made our order. (Though I know this isn’t a food blog, I’ll give my two cents worth: our favorite parts were the breads and indian pudding. The rest of the food was not bad.)

As we were headed out, I noticed a sizable embroidered map of the Greater Boston Area. The interesting stitchery depicted the events of April 19th, 1775, when British soldiers marched through Lexington and Concord. I thought it quite neat.

Further down the hall there appeared to be the hotel section of the inn. You can actually still stay there! But without fully exploring that end, we departed for the car.

When we emerged outside, low and behold, there was a group of fifers getting ready for practice. A father and son stood near a bench. While we waited for my mom to bring the car around, we struck up a conversation. Turns out, the father is a docent at the inn on weekends. They are both a part of different fife and drum corps in the area. The Sudbury Ancients, the father’s group, was the one that was going to be practicing that night. On Wednesday nights during the summer through September you can find them there.

Once he found out that we hadn’t been to the Wayside before and hadn’t gone a tour, he offered to give us a brief tour. We filed back in the way we came while he gave us an overview of events leading up to the shots in Lexington and how that affected the inn and its occupants.

We passed through the lobby to the hall where we had stopped before. On one side, there was a bar, on the other, an exhibit. Our tour guide explained that this was the original section of the building, and this one room has been maintained to appear as it would have hundreds of years ago. The room is believed to be the one described in Henry Wadsworth Longfellow’s poem, Tales of a Wayside Inn, thus the name.

Next we went upstairs, where there is a large function room, a few glass cases with artifacts, and overnight rooms. Our guide pointed out to us an original charred beam from a 1955 fire that blazed in the building. He also told us that people have left rolled up notes in the bedrooms for a long time; unfortunately, any historical significant ones are probably gone.

After answering our questions, he concluded the tour, saying that he recommends returning on a Sunday, when there are reenactors present. Then we filed outside and into the car. I was left with a much better feeling towards the place after our tour. I definitely intend to return on a future Sunday to explore the sites when they have the most to offer. Then I will have to write a Part 2.

As a final note, there does not appear to be any fees for visiting the Wayside Inn, and the Grist Mill is supported by donations. I believe this historic enclave is certainly worth a weekend visit!

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1. Sudbury Ancient Fyfe & Drum Co. 2. Westbrook Drum Corps 3. Landcraft Fife & Drum Corps 4. Menotomy Minute Men Fife & Drum 5. Kentish Guards Fife & Drum Corps 6. Connecticut Patriots 7. William Diamond Jr. Fife & Drum Corps 8. Prescott's Battalion 9. Nathan Hale Ancient Fifes & Drums 10.

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