Discovering History Everywhere

Month: March 2020

Ipswich, Massachusetts

Flashback to last October, on Massachusetts’ North Shore: Ipswich, not far from the New Hampshire border, is a gem of natural and historical sites. We drove (approximately a two hour drive from Boston) with the intention of visiting the famously beautiful Castle Hill on the Crane Estate. However, when we arrived, the gate was shut. The park was closed in order to clean up trees that had fallen in a recent wind storm. But we were determined to still enjoy Ipswich, and we most certainly did.

A park employee, advised us to drive to the nearby – and apparently popular – Crane Beach. The day was sunny, windy, and bone-chilling, but the beach was magnificent. Sand dunes speckled with brush spilled toward the water, where the water thrashed in the wind. Islands and promontories were visible, and marshes spread out on our right.

If we peered closely at the hill behind us, the mansion was just visible in a clearing of the trees. So, other than opulent beauty, what makes the Crane Estate such a cool place to visit? First, there’s a wonderful beach nearby, but the Trustees (the organization in charge), list several other reasons.

Fun Fact: the Crane Estate was used for scenes of Europe in the 2019 movie, Little Women.

Look Closely – the Estate Lies on the Hill’s Left

To start, Castle Hill and Castle Neck were first owned by John Winthrop, the first governor of Massachusetts, beginning in 1637. Two centuries later, the estate was bought by the Brown family. They added roadways and planned plantings to the property. They also renovated what was a farmhouse into the so-called “cottage.”

But in 1910, Richard T. Crane Jr. purchased the land and determined to change it dramatically. Crane was a wealthy industrialist from Chicago, who owned a company manufacturing valves, pumps, and bathroom pieces. He used his wealth extravagantly. The property was landscaped, and even included a completely-functioning farm.

The most striking of the estate’s new features was the house. At first, the Cranes built an Italian-style villa, which was finished in 1912. But they soon changed their minds, and had an English-style mansion constructed in its place! With 59-rooms, it must be impressive.

However, even though we didn’t get a chance to view this monstrous palace up close, now it’s just an excuse to go back. After our fun at Crane beach, it was time for lunch, so we drove into the downtown of Ipswich.

We elected to dine at the Heart and Soul Cafe, a warm, tasty little restaurant right in the center of town. Once we had filled up on a delicious salad, pancakes, and a burger, we set out to walk around. We had passed by a tiny old bridge, visitor center, museums, and cute shops. Unfortunately, I didn’t snap a photo of the streets downtown, but you’ll have to believe me that it was a perfect example of a quaint, bustling New England town.

Everywhere there were signposts and plaques revealing the history of the town. The Visitor Center had some great signs about the Essex Coastal Scenic Byway, which is huge, with a lot of places to discover. Zoom in on the photos below to see for yourself 🙂

The Choate Bridge, originally completed in 1764, and a small dam crossed over the Ipswich River, which runs right by the downtown. There was also a fish ladder nearby.

A pamphlet we picked up at the Visitor Center listed all the First Period (before 1725) Homes in Ipswich. A great idea! Though designed to be a walking guide and map, we used it to drive past a bunch of houses before we headed home. This one town has 60 First Period Homes! And there are 46 listed on the map.

We briefly walked around the John Whipple House. But it was closed at the moment, along with the Ipswich Museum, which lay right across the street. Judging from their website however, I’m sure they’d both be interesting to go inside.

So. I most definitely would like to return to Ipswich, and I hope you’d like to go too. There’s so much more that we didn’t even get to last time. I’m sure you could make a very full day out of everything. And even if you can’t – or don’t want to – go to the Castle Hill on the Crane Estate, there’s plenty to do that is fun and doesn’t even cost a penny.

Castle Hill on the Crane Estate | Ipswich, MA | The Trustees

Experience the grandeur of a seaside estate and its marvelously landscaped grounds, notable for a broad, undulating lawn running down to the shore. What makes Castle Hill a special place? Centuries before becoming a grand summer estate owned by one of America’s wealthiest families, Castle Hill was well known by Native Americans, who called the area Agawam, referring to its rich fishery.

IPSWICH MUSEUM | Ipswich Museum | Long and Rich History of Ipswich

The Ipswich Museum offers an array of exciting lectures, exhibits and classes that are open to the public. Check back throughout the year for the most up to date list of events.

18th Century Colonial Duck…Curry?

Warning: graphic images of raw meat included 😛

I absolutely love cooking historical recipes. Trying out flavors from the past is revealing and almost always tasty. We often make uninformed assumptions about what historical food was like though. And the sheer variety of what people used to eat can be quite surprising. Take for example, this Guyanese Duck Curry.

During the 18th century, there was trade happening all over the world, and international cuisine reflected this. This dish comes from Guyana, which lies in-between Venezuela and Brazil. Duck curry is immensely popular in Guyana, but this South American country’s food contains influences from several other continents. Elements of duck curry originate in North America, Britain, India, the Netherlands, and Africa.

I got the recipe from A Taste of History: Cookbook. I had no idea, but PBS actually airs a show titled A Taste of History, which has hundreds of episodes about 18th century food. Pretty cool. You can find some recipes on their website, which I’ll link to down below.

This recipe could be made with less time and effort if you used store-bought broth. However, the recipe calls for duck broth, which I have never seen for sale before. As I had all the ingredients for duck broth, I decided to make it. Basically, it’s like making another soup, but with the whole carcass steeping in it.

The first step was to butcher the duck, which I promptly realized I didn’t know how to do. After getting frustrated part way through, I watched a tutorial about butchering a duck – it definitely helped. My tips are: 1. know what you’re doing first, and 2. have a sharp knife!

Once I finished butchering, it was time to start the broth. Add together with the duck parts onions, carrots, celery, bay leaves, cloves, peppercorns, and water. Make sure you use all the excess duck parts, I neglected to take a photo with all of them in the pot. I boiled all this for a while (and forgot to switch it to a simmer).

While that boiled, I sautéed two onions, garlic, and curry powder. Then I added the now chopped up duck pieces and tomato. Then some of my precious duck broth went into the pan.

After the broth, the recipe calls for garam masala and cumin. Make sure you do this in a pot. Since my pan turned out to be too small for the following ingredients, I ended up transferring everything to a pot. Then I threw in chopped potatoes, carrots, ginger, and thyme. The original recipe called for habanero, but too much spice isn’t popular with my samplers, so I omitted it.

The recipe says to cook the duck for 10 minutes before you add the carrots and potatoes. I would recommend letting it simmer longer, because the potatoes and carrots were very soft by the time the duck was tender. However, the dish was still yummy. It tasted very modern, like something you could get in a restaurant nowadays. To note, duck does taste different than chicken, if inquiring minds want to know.

This recipe is a great example of the extreme variety present in 18th century food! With the spices from India, potatoes and tomatoes from the New World, and more, any presupposition of bland meals primarily of meat and breads is simply blown away. Just like anything, you must delve deeper before you assume it to be one way or another.

I highly encourage everyone to take a stab at recreating their own historical recipe! If you don’t have – or desire to buy – a cookbook, there are plenty of resources online. Colonial Williamsburg, Jas. Townsend and Sons, and many others offer recipes and tutorials on their websites or on YouTube.


Here is the video I watched partway through the process:

How to butcher a duck

Butchering is a great skill to have, since it’s often cheaper to buy the whole animal rather than portions. Have a go at buying a whole duck and using it in …

A Taste Of History | Winner of Ten Emmy® Awards!

Help produce another Emmy© award winning season We were just nominated for 5 more Emmy’s©.

Townsends

A channel dedicated to exploring the 18th Century lifestyle. Subscribe for hundreds of videos on 18th century living, cooking, clothing, and much more. Our W…

Recipes

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What Would You Do With an Old Barn?

The Harvard Historical Society’s Barn Tour

When was the last time you saw a rotting barn? If you live in New England, chances are it wasn’t very long ago. Last September, I had the chance to step inside six unique barns in Harvard, Massachusetts. But none of them were rotting. In fact, they were all great examples of barns that have been preserved, reused, and repurposed over the years.

The Harvard Historical Society partnered with six owners throughout the town who were willing to open their barns to the public. Planned out well, the tour was self-led, with reenactors, local businesses and artists stationed at each barn. We received a map and an information booklet in the center of town, which directed us to the various barn locations. The day was sunny and warm, perfect for walking around outside from site to site.

Atherton Barn

The Atherton Barn was a beautiful barn and contained a lot of eclectic antiques. However, for some reason, I neglected to capture a photo of the barn’s exterior.

Most of the barn that stands today was built in 1792 to replace an earlier barn. The barn was first used by the Atherton Tavern and Inn as a carriage house. Later on, it switched hands to the Congregational Church, and became the parsonage for the town minister.

Its current owner totally rebuilt the right side of the barn, adding in heat and A/C. An incredible woven staircase leads to the second floor, complete with a “coffin corner” for carrying large items upstairs.

The Woven Staircase

On the second floor is a vintage hang-out room, and a room used for the Underground Railroad! The barn houses many antiques and vintage memorabilia, including the Harvard Historical Society’s apple sorter.

For the event, Westward Orchards offered donuts and apples, and a wonderful ukulele band strummed outside.

Deacon Isaac Stone Barn

(House is in the Foreground, the Barn is Sporting Solar Panels)

“Make sure you take a look at the toilet!” That was the advice we received upon arrival at this barn. As you may have guessed from his name, former barn owner Isaac Stone was a stonecutter. Built sometime in the mid- to late- 1700s, the barn has an English structure, mainly characterized by the large doors opening on the long side. Out of its four stories, we were only able to explore two.

The main floor split into several spaces that were partitioned off. One of these was the noteworthy “two holer” toilet. The current owner is proud of the curiosity, as he has restored it over the years.

Through the duel openings, you have a view to the basement, and the gravestone that lies beneath (slightly sacrilegious? 😛 ). Cracked into multiple pieces, the headstone belongs to Jerome Farnsworth, who died at the age of nineteen years, nine months, and nine days. A replacement gravestone was probably made after this one cracked, and that is why this one was left in the basement.

The craftsman behind the engraving was likely Isaac Stone. Behind the barn, you can still see the foundation of Stone’s workshop. In fact, the workshop itself was still standing up until the 1950s. To commemorate the former owner’s trade, the event planners had a modern day stonecutter working in the yard. With his electric tools, he carved a piece of art over the course of the day for an auction that night.

The Great Elms Barn

This is a million dollar story – in more ways than one. Unique and expensive, the Great Elms Barn was completely disassembled from its original location and then reassembled piece by piece into its present form. And it’s huge!

For this barn, we had already had a backstory: the Harvard Historical Society had previously hosted a presentation by the owner detailing the laborious process of barn deconstruction and re-raising. Will Stevenson showed photos of the barn which had been left to deteriorate, and was now slated for demolition.

Determined to fulfill his dream of owning an old barn, Stevenson bought the barn. He and a team worked to meticulously disassemble the entire barn, labeling every piece as they went.

Once they had built a foundation on their own property, they transported the wood across town and began the process of rebuilding. To the original parts, they added a new roof and siding, along with a second cupola for ventilation. In all, the project took a full year.

Now friends and neighbors take advantage of the space in the winter to store any and every sort of recreational vehicle and equipment. The barn’s ample space can handle it all. But the darkened, vast beams, and multiple sets of coded numbering remind you that the barn has seen many other uses for a long time back.

The Turner Barn

The Front of the Turner Barn

The Turner Barn was built for cows. In 1849, Rebecca Turner recorded in her diary the dates of the barn construction and raising. She and her husband, Oliver, had purchased the farm the year prior. Their new barn reused some beams from a barn across the street, and was lined with cattle stalls.

In the photo’s bottom left, you can just see the lower-level entrance where the cows could enter the barn. Here, the stone steps are well-worn from all the traffic they received.

A benefit of the Turner’s location, for them and their cattle, was water. Underground springs flowed down Prospect Hill, where the Turners tapped into them, funneling water through the barn’s basement.

To the south, a spring house piped more water back to the house, where it was stored in copper vats and a cistern. The Turners had running water inside, and flushing toilets upstairs.

Inside, the barn was more divided than the others we saw that day, so the middle hallway was narrower. But in the separate sections, there was a woodworker, a maple sugarer, an artist, and a reenactor. So there was a lot to see, talk about, and taste. 🙂

The Sawyer Barn

I really liked how the Sawyer barn looked; its exterior was particularly picturesque, especially with its flourishing garden out back. Built in 1850, likely by Jabez Sawyer, the barn has three floors. Its unique main door has rollers on the bottom instead of the top, which was traditional.

Set on a small hill, a stone ramp – now covered in grass – leads up to the barn’s main doors. The basement lies open to the outside on the lower left side. Here, a staircase to nowhere was the barn’s claim to fame. Also back and to the right, a garden is planted, where a local beekeeper was stationed with his honey and herbs. A 1700s Sawyer farmhouse stands to its left.

Like the Turner Barn, this barn had a narrower middle hall, bordered by partitions. However, it was the only barn to currently house a horse, Dexter, and his stall was apparent along one wall. Long logs made up the beams, along with two that were joined together with only a dovetail. Intricate metalworked pieces by Babacool Arts hung in the hallway, and a reenactor related stories from her childhood.

The Reedich Barn

The Reedich Barn, Entrance to Upper Floor is on the Side

The Reedich Barn was given as an impressive example of what a completely modern barn can look like, and the functions it can serve in a non-agrarian society. Originally intended to store recreational vehicles, upon completion the barn was deemed too nice for that purpose. So the family opted to add in a few more homey features to create a barn-style, luxury hang-out space and work area.

The top floor included a loft, tiny kitchen, and living room. Downstairs had more of a garage feeling, with its expansive doors and workshop. An atypical garage feature, however, was the large home-brewing set-up in the corner. Also, I thought it was pretty cool that there was a hidden driveway under the grass (no more sinking into the muddy grass I guess).


The Harvard Barn-to-Barn Tour was great! Getting to see inside what would otherwise be private barns was special and interesting. The Harvard Historical Society did an excellent job involving the community in its production: gathering local artists, craftsmen, farmers, and businesses to decorate and advocate at each barn. It really felt like a community affair. The only thing that would complete the feeling of an inclusive community, would be a lower ticket price. That way, a better representation of the surrounding community can enjoy the tour. If they have it again next year, I hope you can go!

Harvard Historical Society

The Harvard Historical Society, located at 215 Still River Road, is committed to preserving Harvard’s past for Harvard’s future and to helping you discover your town through educational and cultural programming that connects to our history. We are a private, not-for-profit organization that relies on membership and donations to maintain our buildings and our collections…

For even more pictures, go to the Harvard Historical Society’s website.

Barn To Barn Tour Pics!

Thanks to the 260 tour-goers, 30 volunteers, 11 artisans, 11 food vendors, 14 performers and, 12 barn owners, the Barn To Barn Tour was a fantastic success. Here are a few pictures of the great day…

Lucky Charms, Leprechauns, and… Forgiveness?

Did you know that March 17th has been celebrated as St. Patrick’s Day for over 1,000 years? But all the traditions we associate with it now, most certainly weren’t there to begin with. In the middle ages, people weren’t saying: wear something green or be pinched, eat some corned beef and cabbage, wear a shamrock pin, etc. March 17th was a day to remember a man with great forgiveness, who dedicated a lot to Ireland. Yep, St. Patrick.

In the centuries that have passed, some of the details (such as his name) have been misplaced and disagreed upon, but the core of the history is true. A young boy, perhaps named Maewyn Succat, lived in Britain. Not only was “Patrick” not Irish, you could even say he was Roman. For the Romans were only just leaving their British colony alone, after the collapse of the Western Roman Empire in 476 A.D.

When he was sixteen years old, Maewyn/Patrick was captured by Irish who desired to take advantage of the newly relinquished Britain. Maewyn was kept as a slave in Ireland for some six to ten years. After that time, he either escaped, or was freed, and made it back to Britain.

After he returned, Maewyn decided to train to become a Catholic priest. This is when Maewyn changed his name to Patrick (or Patricius, Latin for “father figure”). He then received a calling from God to return to the Irish as a missionary. Faithfully, Patrick did just that. He sailed back to Ireland and had success in reaching the people of Ireland, largely Druid, with the Catholic faith. Churches sprouted up all over the island, and Ireland was never the same because of Patrick.

Out of gratefulness, the Irish people began celebrating Patrick on the supposed day of his death, March 17th. Since its inception, many traditions have become part of the annual festival.

The iconic tradition of decorating with shamrocks on St. Patrick’s Day springs from the legend that Patrick used the plant (either clover or sorrel) to illustrate the hard-to-grasp concept of the Holy Trinity. Though each leaf is a distinct, separate leaf, together the three form one, single clover (or sorrel), just as the Father, Son, and Holy Spirit are distinct, but One. To remember Patrick and his explanation, people started wearing the three-leaf plant on his holiday.

There are many other more unusual St. Patrick’s Day customs that developed as Irish Americans spread their cultural pride across the nation. For example, dying entire rivers green, giant parades, and chugging beer. But amidst the Irish-themed revelry, I think there’s an important take-away from Patrick: forgiveness.

While reading about Patrick, it struck me how difficult it must have been to be a missionary to the same people who had hurt him so much. To serve those who enslaved him took an immense amount of forgiveness. Not only did Patrick let go of his bitterness, he desired to help his captors by obeying God. And the Irish people benefitted because of it. So beneath all the lucky charms, beer, and parades, we’re really celebrating a man who gave a great example of true forgiveness.

Resources:

https://time.com/4261456/st-patrick-day-2016-history-real-saint/

The second video on the page has a great overview of Patrick! https://www.history.com/topics/st-patricks-day/history-of-st-patricks-day

https://www.britannica.com/topic/Saint-Patricks-Day

Book Review: Diary of a Napoleonic Foot Soldier

Warning: this post is not for the squeamish.

Lice, death, and soapy peas. The Diary of a Napoleonic Foot Soldier is a unique–albeit gruesome–account of Napoleon’s conquests. It’s told from the perspective of a peasant, Jakob Walter, which is a rare occurrence. All other accounts of these wars are from the more well-to-do.

Walters was also ahead of his time in giving an even-handed recounting of the war’s events. Though we applaud telling both sides of an issue nowadays, in the late 18th/early 19th century, it was much more common to write only in favor of one side.

In addition to being innovative and historically piquant, Walter’s diary is also just an honest account of a man’s life during bleak times. It’s not an authoritative text on the tactics of war, dates of battles, and characters of leaders. Instead, Walter tells it like it is: war that is hungry, savage on both sides, and either freezing cold or blisteringly hot.

While reading, I found myself squirming a lot. Walter describes the rampant infestation of lice the army dealt with. At one point, his captain asks him to help him, as his lice are really bothering him.

“…for this reason he asked me to kill the tormentors in his shirt collar. I did it; but, when I had his collar open, his raw flesh showed forth where the greedy beasts had gnawed in. I had to turn my eyes way with abhorrence and reassure the master that I saw nothing, telling him that my eyes hurt so much from the smoke that I could not see anything. These pests, however, were no less to be found on me, thousands of them.”

Jakob Walter, (78)

Walters does a really good job of depicting the desensitization that was required of soldiers just in order to survive the horrors they were experiencing. He sees thousands killed and wounded, but there is no way to save the wounded, so they are left to die as well.

One night, while trying to find a place to sleep in the dark, Walter curls up next to his horse on a bit of ground that is softer than its surroundings. In the morning, he discovers that he slept atop a dead man’s belly that hadn’t frozen solid yet. And then he moves on.

He also talks of his desperate search for food when traveling through frozen Russia. He and his comrades would head towards burning villages to scavenge any hidden food stores. I couldn’t help but think of the hungry peasants the soldiers left behind when they were victorious.

Walter and some of his comrades combine some of their meagre food supplies for a memorable meal. A rare pot of seasoned peas with lard, they are forced to throw away – the “frozen lard” was actually soap.

Uniforms of La Grande Armée - Wikipedia

To put Walter’s account into a historical perspective: Napoleon’s campaign in 1812-1814 sent 650,000 men into Russia. 200,000 were captured, and only 30,000 soldiers returned. Miraculously, Walter was one of those who returned to his family.

Walter gives all the credit for his survival to God. He notes that “since I did not suffer the misfortune of being wounded, I thought: ‘God, Thou hast allowed me to live till now. I thank Thee and offer up my sufferings to Thee and pray Thee at the same time to take me further into Thy protection,” (Walter, 49). With all the horrific misadventures Walter endured, it’s hard to believe his survival was anything but supernatural.

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